On the road

Anxious to get to Sydney before our money ran out we went on the road after three weeks in Margaret River. It was sad leaving all our new friends. We said our goodbyes and packed our car. To free up some space in the car Fergus took the roof rack out and put it up on the roof. Walpole was our target destination for the night. After setting off late we arrived that evening.
	It was a wonderful start to the journey. The sheer variety of shape and and distinct colour of the trees was mesmerising. The meandering road twisted around the trees adding to the effect. Here I am climbing the Goucester Tree outside Walpole. It is the tallest fire lookout tree in the world.
We had our tent pitched by dusk and we asked the neighbours if we could use their cigarette lighter power point in their car to pump up the mattresses. Afterwards we joined the couple for a barbecue supper. They told us all about Sydney and what we had to look forward to. As I lay down to sleep my wonder gave in to the terror that lurked in my stomach. How was I going to make it to Sydney? I had only $200 in my bank account. I knew I was owed a small amount of money from the vineyard and my family had promised to support me soon. It broke my heart knowing that at best I wouldn't be working for two weeks. Fergus had a few hundred dollars in his bank account and he said I could lean on him. But how long would it take for his fraternity to turn into resentment? Never mind that are their any feckin' dingoes around here?

	Next day we set off early and by lunchtime we reached the Valley of the Giants outside Denmark. Some of the largest Karri trees in the world are found here. One of the most serious problems facing the wildlife in this and indeed many other regions is bushfire.

Many of these hardy trees survived many bushfires. Despite having its innards burnt out this one survived. It is hundreds of years old. We heard that camping is allowed on one of Denmark's beaches. The calm, warm water make this beach excellent for snorkelling. You can imagine the variety of exotic fish you would find here. I was disappointed that my snorkelling kit was useless. My head was too big and the mask leaked. What do you expect for $10? Still its hard to moan around here. Off we went in search of this beach that accommodated campers. Alarmingly our beach had signs saying "campers will be prosecuted".
	So using our trusty four wheel drive gear which we had been dying to use for ages we decided to off-road over the dunes in search of the spot where campers are allowed to sleep. Suddenly we seemed to be going nowhere. Its all very well having four wheel drive but its worthless if you don't have big monster truck wheels on your car.
Using our hurley sticks as shovels and letting some air out of the tyres we tried to get free before it got too dark. Fortunately a family arrived in a proper 4x4 truck. Using a rope they towed us free. After we pitched our tent I sheepishly approached our benefactor and asked him if he could help pump up my mattress. Fergus slept in the car. Next day it was Sunday and we set off for Albany.

When we got on the road we knew that we had let a substantial amount of air out of the tyres because they were squelching. The nearest petrol station was in Albany so we hoped for the best we wouldn't get a puncture. Just as we reached the outskirts of the town the front tyre went. It was completely ruined. And that sinking feeling returned. Replacement tyres don't come cheap at the best of times. Luckily I was able to pick up a second hand one for $20 the next day. Albany was a crucial stop off on the journey because this was the town where we had sent faxes to all the hostels informing them that we were looking for a passenger. When the signal returned on Fergus' phone I knew we were back in a big town. It was the first time it had worked since we left Margaret River. There was a message in his voicemail. Simon, from Bath, England wanted to head out east with us! We got ourselves a hostel and settled in. Fergus called Simon and made arrangements for the next morning's departure. On the wall was a notice for a football match that afternoon. With everything set for Monday we had an enjoyable game. One of the players invited us around to his house to watch the FA Cup match between Man Utd and West Ham. Fabien Barthez let us down and out of the FA Cup we went.
	Next day we collected Simon and set off for Esperance, the last significant stop in Western Australia and entered the desert. Simon seemed pleasant enough. But it wasn't long before he began to annoy me. Late that evening we reached Esperance. We had heard a lot about this place. After checking into a hostel we chilled out with the other residents. It was a nice place.

Wednesday morning and we were facing the make or break drive into the Nullarbor. I checked my bank account and yes! There was $472 waiting for me. I paid back some money to Fergus and Simon who I had borrowed from and I had about $300 left. Surely this would see me to Sydney. We bought some food, filled the car and jerry can up with petrol, made sure we had all the spare parts and plenty of tapes to keep the sounds pumping. We drove off into the sun and it didn't take long for the temperature to rise. Esperance and all the towns we visited on the south coast were very breezy and quite cool at night time. Norseman on the edge of the Nullarbor was the last outpost. We had a couple of cokes which quickly turned warm and off we went.
	This is the longest piece of road without a bend in it in the whole world. It stretches for 114km. Travelling through the Nullarbor Desert made me realise how islolated Perth is. You could travel for half an hour and not pass anybody. So it is a good idea to bring lots of spare parts in case the car breaks down.
It is also important not to run out of petrol or to fill the tank with diesel. Air conditioning is also a comfort if you have it. We opted for the uncomfortable route.The bulk of the traffic is made up of road trains bringing cargo from Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney over to Western Australia. These road trains are articulated lorries with two or three trailors on them. The rest of the traffic is made up of travellers making their way around Australia and whenever we passed them frantic waves were exchanged.I was warned by a friend in Perth that when crossing the desert the windows in the car should be kept closed even if you don't have air conditioning. But I didn't believe the advice until I experienced the dry hair dryer like wind blowing at me. We travelled in temperatures as hot as the high 40s. But for some reason it was never unbearable.

	Soon we were in South Australia. It was my first time outside Western Australia. We filled up with petrol and kept on driving. Simon piped up every now and then with helpful suggestions like "I think you should change gear!" and so on. Grrrrr! This is a picture of me at the Great Australian Bight.
The sea below me is shark infested and you could easily fall off the sheer cliffs if you weren't careful. By dusk we made it to Caiguna having spent the whole day on the road. Caiguna, the first town we encountered was nothing more than a truck stop motel. We pitched our tents around the back of it. Next morning we left very quickly because the hundreds of ants that were crawling up our legs made the car the only safe place. Fortunately they didn't make it into the tent during the night.

	We made up huge ground on Thursday driving from 9am arriving in Ceduna at 2am. That night we camped by the side of the road in a place reserved for truck drivers to sleep. Afraid of getting a ticket (Australian cops love giving tickets) we upped pegs and tents as soon as it got bright.

	Off we went to Adelaide. We let Simon do the driving for this bit. Adelaide was in the middle of a heat wave. Exhausted I had a cold beer and went to bed for an hour. An older couple was staying in the same quarters as us in the hostel. They were convinced they knew Simon from somewhere.

	Adelaide was also where we would part ways with Simon. Flicking through the Lonely Planet I liked the sound of the city. Coming from a sprawling unplanned city like Dublin I have always been attracted to a planned city.
There is lots of green space throughout this relatively small city. Adelaide was established by Germans who wanted to establish a city where they could freely practice their religion. And there are heaps of churches. I was too excited at being in a city again and I went down to the vibrant fruit and vegetable markets to enjoy the ambience and of course the food. On Saturday we were on the road again. After Adelaide the scenery began to change. Criss crossing the murkey brown Murray River after traversing the Hunter valley made me feel like I was in the Deep South of the USA. Using our cheap but effective Penguin Road Atlas we decided that Wagga Wagga would be a destination that would leave us only a short trip to Canberra on Sunday. Caught up in the excitement of it all we covered the massive distance that night and arrived at 2am at the town camp site. Unaware of what time it was I roused the grumpy proprietor to let us in. Next morning we woke up to the sound of hundreds of cawing crows or wagga wagga as the Aborignes call them. Wagga wagga being the plural of the singular wagga. After Sunday brunch we set off for Canberra to see my cousin Kathleen and her family, the Becketts.

	This is Steve, Kathleen and Emma. They gave us a warm welcome. After a brief tour of the city we went to the house for dinner. We exchanged stories and sat on the verandah drinking brandy. There was a thunder storm.
It was the first rain they had all summer. It was strangely calming to watch the storm. Next morning Emma showed us her chooks in the back garden and asked myself and Fergus to stay another day or two. But with the finish line so close and the ever pressing need to get work we decided to head on. We promised to come back soon. We got into the car to find that the floor was covered in an inch of water. The car's charming quirks were beginning to get annoying. As we drove up the hill out of Canberra towards Sydney more water poured in from the bonnet onto our feet. Roll on Sydney. We arrived in Burwood, Sydney that afternoon and met John and his friend Derek. I shaved off my beard and was ready for the next experience.